The English
Please note: we mainly go off the BRC Standard for angoras, however, I believe the American Standard goes into more information on wool, so you would be best to read both.
I have summarised below, for what I strive to breed for in my angoras…. PLEASE NOTE: THIS IS NOT THE BRC OR AMERICAN STANDARD.
Red Eyed White Angoras
points as per BRC standard
|
1 |
Wool Quality |
30 |
|
2 |
Wool Quantity and Length |
25 |
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3 |
Front |
10 |
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4 |
Head & Ears |
10 |
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5 |
Size & Shape |
10 |
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6 |
Feet |
5 |
|
7 |
Conditon |
10 |
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Total |
100 |
Summarised below as:
|
1 & 2 |
WOOL QUALITY, QUANTITY AND LENGTH – 30 & 25 Texture as silky as possible, smooth and glossy, showing signs of health. Even length in body coat desirable. DENSITY The greatest density possible is desired. To be even all over including the back and the belly. Density should be determined by feeling several places on the body, top, sides, rump and chest, as well as blowing into the wool. (The wool should separate all the way to the skin.) Neither length of wool, nor webbed, matted, or felted wool, should be mistaken for density. Faults—Wool that is lacking density; bare spots. LENGTH Length of wool to be even over the whole body. Gradually blended length variation from the back and sides to the belly is permissible. Ideal length is 3 ½ to 5 inches. Wool exceeding 5 inches in length is NOT to be given any advantage, and not to be considered a disadvantage either. Wool should not be so long as to spoil the English type appearance of a round ball of fluff. Evenness of growth of wool is desired – remembering that a gradual decrease in length will appear when looking at the underside of the animal. Fault -- Wool not balanced in length. Disqualification from competition -- Wool less than 2 inches. This is the American Standard. TEXTURE The wool is to have a silky texture and should be alive, healthy, and fall free – not parting over the back displaying a flat appearance. Although in longer coated exhibits it is acceptable, provided its not due to moulting or coat not having much density. Guard hairs are to be evident in separating and protecting the underwool. Underwool should be crimped. NOTE: A junior may exhibit a softer coat than an adult, but should have guard hairs evident. When a rabbit has the right texture and is in its prime, you should actually see the wool with a little wave which is the crimp, and the guard hairs are straight, lustrous. The prime coat gives a silky, smooth and flowy appearance. Faults— Wool that is too soft or cottony. Wool that is hair-like. Wool that parts over the back displaying a flat appearance. KITTEN/JUNIORS If a kitten/junior rabbit does not have enough guard hair, the chance of this Rabbit growing into an awesome adult is slim. There are some juniors whose wool looks like cotton candy. This is caused by soft and scaley wool shaft hooking on each other, without the help of guard hairs to separate them, forming a cottony texture. It is similar to people having hair with split ends tangling up with each other forming a frizzy texture. These rabbits with cottony texture tend to be difficult to maintain and almost impossible to groom. The ragged scales of the wool shaft cause the wool to tangle up into early felting. That is why some rabbits can keep the coat for 12 months and others can only stay in the shows for a short time. |
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3 |
FRONT - 10 Full and prominent on chest and sides of neck Front to blend in with the body with short neck apparent. |
|
4 |
HEAD AND EARS - 10 Broad short head, head to have abundance of furnishings. short well wooled and thickly tufted ears, longer length desirable. Ears to be erect and stand out appearance Cheek furnishings to blend in with body coat. Overall appearance of head to blend in with body, assisting in snowball shape. |
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5 |
SIZE AND SHAPE - 10 Round and snowball like. Weight at 5 mths ideally in the region of 2.373kg. An adult ideally not to exceed 3.283 kgs. Type and quality always to be taken into account. Exhibits not to be long in body Shoulders to be even with hips, assisting with overall appearance of snowball shape. |
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6 |
FEET - 5 Thickly covered with long wool, well furnished. Bottoms of feet to also have long wool. Sore hocks not desirable |
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7 |
CONDITION - 10 Clean, well nourished and well groomed. |
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EYES Ruby, (as red as possible) bright and bold, if you can find them, lol! |
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LEGS Straight and heavily wooled, length desirable, no matting or knots to be found |
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TAIL Large and well wooled, straight and blends in with wool on body |
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HEAD Wide across nostrils, bold appearance, densely furred, wool to be long and thick between and behind ears. Face furnishings to stand out, and the longer the better. Eyes to be not noticeable, as wool should be dense. |
SERIOUS FAULTS - Narrow wedge head, long plain ears, plain feet, matted coat, coarse coat, bad condition, lop ears, bald spots, webbing in coat, white toe nails in coloured exhibits.
Disqualifications: malloculded teeth, open sores or scratches, runny nose,
COLOURED
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NOTE: As there are no specialists clubs in |
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SOLID COLOUR 10 Points Angoras are unique in the fact that they possess a multi-layered coat. The tips of each new coat are therefore darker than the previous coat which lightens as it gains length. This produces BANDING IN ALL COLOURS. Rabbits should not be excessively penalised for lighter bands of the top colour appearing in the coat, but the more uniform the colour the better. WHITE BANDS are unacceptable, with the exception of the GOLDEN which is of a yellow origin and therefore has a CREAMY-WHITE band at the base of the coat. Angoras can have up to 5 layers of coat at any one time. All coloured angoras have bands, the darker the colour (ie smokes), the darker the bands. Some colours also are quite pale as Kittens, and darken up when they hit approx 6 months of age, ie the Sooty Fawn, for example, sootys as kittens can have a very pale, almost white belly, but I have seen in my stock, kittens with pale bellies, actually start to darken up with age, getting the correct sooty colour by about 6 months of age. Due to the length in the coat, most coloured exhibits are pale, and not as obvious on, say a rex rabbit. This to be taken into consideration when judging. Not all coloured exhibits have prominent guard hairs, such as REWs have, the coloured angoras seem to have a finer coat than the rew’s, and the guard hairs can often not be as obvious on a coloured exhibit, or will appear finer and less obvious. In my opinion, the colours accepted by the BRC in English Angoras are Limited, so I have included some other BRC accepted colours that are not included in the standard that Hops’N’Lops have successfully bred, or are working on reintroducing |
COLOURS
Note, there are not a lot of colours available in
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SHADED |
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SOOTY FAWN Mask and feet brown black, wool as for Golden but with brown/black shadings on lower flanks and ears. Belly creamy-white, eyes brown. Sooty Fawns tend to have a very light coloured belly as kittens and juniors, with the sooty colour coming in when they are adults. No points to be deducted for an angora with a pale belly as kittens and juniors |
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BLUE-CREAM Mask and feet blue. Wool as for cream but with blue shadings on ears and flanks, with the colour extended across belly. A blue tinge to the wool and blue tipping is desirable but NOT essential. Eyes blue-grey. Blue Cream is a Blue Fawn in other Standards. For the First time in 2008, Hops’N’Lops have produced this colour! |
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LILAC-CREAM Mask and feet Lilac. Wool as for cream but with Lilac shadings on ears and flanks, with the colour extended across belly. A lilac tinge to the wool and lilac tipping is desirable but NOT essential. Eyes blue-grey. Lilac Cream is a Lilac Tort in other Standards. For the First time in 2008, Hops’N’Lops have produced this colour! |
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CHOC-TORT Overall impression orange shading to dark chocolate 'points' and belly. NON BRC ENGLISH |
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SABLE-LIGHT SHADE A medium sepia colour similar to fur breed. Ears, face and tail a deep sepia. Body wool shaded from a medium sepia on back to a lighter on chest and flanks. Undercolour fawn. |
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SABLE-MEDIUM SHADE As for light shade except for dark sepia colour instead of medium. |
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SABLE-DARK SHADE Very dark plum brown, can be almost black on mask, inplace of sepia. Often mistaken for a smoke, but coat colour of dark sable has distinct rusty tones in the wool. Eyes for all shades to glow ruby red in subdued light but brown eyes acceptable. |
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MARTEN-LIGHT SHADE A medium sepia colour similar to fur breed. Ears, face and tail a deep sepia. Body wool shaded from a medium sepia to lighter on chest and flanks. Undercolour fawn. The chest, flanks, rump and feet to be well ticked with white hairs, any extension of white ticking over sides and rump to be added beauty and not a fault.(It will be difficult to find the ticking in the longer parts of the coat, so it will not be considered a fault if not seen). Light nape of neck to be confined to the triangle behind the ears, and this should be as small as possible. Eye circles, inside of ears, line of jowel, inside of nostrils, inside feet and legs, belly and underside of tail to be white. White belly can have sepia undercolour. |
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MARTEN-MEDIUM SHADE As for light shade except that medium sepia colour to read rich dark sepia. |
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MARTEN-DARK SHADE As for light shade except that medium sepia colour to read very rich dark plum brown. Darker, almost black colour on face, ears and tail. Coat colour has distinct rusty tones in the wool. Eyes for all shades to be brown and to glow ruby red in subdued light. |
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SELF |
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CHOCOLATE Rich chocolate on head, ears, legs and tail. Body lighter shade with tips to match head. Undercolour pale chocolate. Eyes to glow ruby red in subdued light, but brown eyes acceptable. Also pale blue/greys eyes acceptable with ruby glow |
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SMOKE Head and feet black. Wool dark bluish-grey without white base. Tips to match head. Nose and ears to be free of silvering. Eyes blue without white base. Tips to match head. Ears and nose to be free of silvering. Eyes bluish-grey. Fault white hairs or white guard hairs |
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BLUE Head, feet and ears blue, as dark as possible. Wool blue without white base. Tips to match head. Ears and nose to be free of silvering. Eyes blue-grey. |
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TAN PATTERN |
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SMOKE OTTER Overall impression jet black edged with orange then white. NON BRC ENGLISH |
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BLUE OTTER Overall impression blue-grey edged with orange/fawn then white. NON BRC ENGLISH |
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LILAC OTTER Overall impression pinky dove grey edged with orange/fawn then white. NON BRC ENGLISH |
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CHOC OTTER Overall impression chocolate-brown edged with orange then white. NON BRC ENGLISH |
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AGOUTI PATTERNS |
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BROWN-GREY Head, ears and feet wild grey, a mixture of black and gold. Wool blue, as dark as possible with tips to match head. Eyes brown. White belly with blue undercolour. Brown Grey is Agouti in other Standards |
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BLUE-GREY Head, ears and feet a mixture of blue and gold. Wool blue, with tips to match the head. White belly with blue undercolour. Eyes blue-grey. Blue Grey is Opal in other Standards. |
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CHINCHILLA Head, ears and feet similar to fur breed, a mixture of black and silver.Wool bluish with tips to match the head, definition of pearling etc of fur breed not essential. White belly with blue undercolour. Eyes blue, brown or blue-grey. |
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CINNAMON Head, ears and feet a mixture of chocolate and cinnamon. Wool paler cinnamon with tips to match head. White belly with or without pale cinnamon undercolour. Eyes brown or glowing ruby red in subdued light |
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AOC |
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GOLDEN (formerly Golden Fawn) Orange genetically. Head, feet and tips a rich, clear orange gold. Wool lighter with colour carried down as far as possible shading to a creamy-white base. Belly creamy-white, eyes brown. |
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CREAM Fawn Genetically Head and feet cream, wool lighter cream with tips to match the head. Creamy-white belly, eyes a blue-grey |
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BROKEN Overall impression white with coloured patches. Brokens are being worked on in |
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BUTTERFLY Overall impression white with a regular coloured pattern. |
FAULTS: Silvered ears and noses in smokes and blues, putty nose.
SERIOUS FAULTS: White toe nails. White patches on any part of the body, but WHITE FLASHES ON UNDERTAIL OF AGOUTIS IS NOT A FAULT.
I personally think it’s a waste of time showing a clipped
|
1 |
Body Coat |
15 |
|
2 |
Furnishings |
15 |
|
3 |
Head |
10 |
|
4 |
Ears |
10 |
|
5 |
Body |
25 |
|
6 |
Legs & Feet |
10 |
|
7 |
Conditon |
10 |
|
8 |
Carriage |
5 |
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Total |
100 |
|
1 |
BODY COAT Clipped down to a maximum of 2.54cm(1inch). pure colour, fine texture, even and dense all over. A coat of 2.54 - 5.08cm (1-2inches) maximum is permissable in the case of a coloured |
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2 |
FURNISHINGS Head, feet, legs, ears and tail |
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3 |
HEAD Broad short skull, broad flat nose, large eyes of correct colour, dense crest, long fringe, thickly wooled along line of jaw. |
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4 |
EARS Erect, short, tapered, well wooled, fringed and tufted. |
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5 |
BODY Short coupled, back arched, chest deep, broad and prominent, powerful shoulders and loins of good size. |
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7 |
LEGS AND FEET Straight, good but not coarse boned, heavily wooled, with short nails. |
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8 |
CONDITION Firm flesh, clean, well nourished and well groomed. |
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CARRIAGE Alert and upstanding, masculine in appearance in the case of a buck. |
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WEIGHT Ideally not to be more than kg3.283 (7.5lbs) |
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SERIOUS FAULTS Narrow wedge head, low head or ear carriage, plain long ears, no furnishings, bad condition, patchy coat. |